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Let’s Have A Little Controversy

PostDateIcon May 28th, 2006 | PostAuthorIcon Author: Ian

Finally had a chance to read through this current (June-July 2006) issue of WineMaker Magazine. Some really interesting articles and some country wine recipes provided by Jack Keller.

One article though in particular, the “Winemaker Profile” column on Chuck Blethen really caught my attention. In fact, there are two things he is quoted as saying that I wonder about.

First, on the use of sulphite:

“… once the initial Campden tablets run out following the rogue yeast kill, I don’t add sulfites to our wines. I have found that many people who are allergic to sulfites can drink our wines and not get headaches or get sick from allergic reactions.”

There is some controversy about “sulfite allergies.” The fact of the matter is that sulfites are used in food preservation in a vast array of prepared foods that you might purchase at the grocery store. Those who say they get headaches after drinking red wine will sometimes put this down to “sulfites” in the wine. Many think this is doubtful – it is more likely the alcohol in the wine – or some other component in red wine that is not in white wine. Sulfite allergies, as I understand it, with the amount used in food or wine preservation are very rare. So when Blethen says, “many people who are allergic to sulfites,” one wonders how he knows for sure that these people were indeed allergic to sulfite in the first place – simply their claims of such? Have they been tested for this allergy?

And at the same time, I then wonder about how long he dares age his wines without sulfite. Unless he is using absolutely sanitary conditions where there are no fruit flies or any other organisms even off of his clothing – I really can’t see him being able to guarantee that a good number of bottles from any batch will survive even one year’s ageing.

Another thing Blethen says is this:

“I have found that filtering my wines causes them to lose about 50% of the flavour.”

Wow! How in the world did he come up with that figure of “50%?” That just seems absurd to me. Now, I have heard that filtering wine can reduce flavour – and truth be told, I don’t filter a lot of my wines either. However, I have conducted my own “taste tests” on some wines I’ve made, and my tongue couldn’t tell the difference between wine I had filtered with #2 pads vs. wine from the very same batch that had not been filtered.

Perhaps some can tell a difference. I’d certainly be agreeable to considering that some folks will have a much more sensitive palatte than I do – but to come up with an objective number – 50% or, in other words, “lost HALF” with something so subjective as flavour seems to be pretty much nonsense to me. How does one measure “flavour” anyhow?

And what is the “fineness” of the filters that Blethen was using that apparently took away so much flavour? Is he suggesting that #3 filters will remove the same “amount” of taste as say, a #2 or #1?

Getting back to the sulfite – if you make your own wine at home, use it or don’t age your wine for very long. Unless you are extremely confident that your wine making area is 100% bacteria and germ free.

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